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Biwiring
and Passive Biamping
I couldn't find a comprehensive website on this subject, so...
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Most
passive multi-way Pro Audio and Musical Instrument loudspeakers have a
single set of inputs, a Positive and a Negative. Most folks think
of the passive crossover as a device with a single set of input
connections and multiple sets of output connections (one for the tweeter
and one for the woofer, in the case of a two-way speaker), and that the
only way to upgrade the speaker is to remove the crossover to make it
active, which of course requires a second channel of amplification and
an electronic crossover. This is not the case. There
are two upgrades between the typical passive loudspeaker and it's active
counterpart. Here's the poop: |
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Here
we see the schematic for a basic two-way, 12dB per octave passive
crossover. The crossover is comprised of two filters:
1)
A high-pass filter to remove the low frequencies from the signal
feeding the tweeter.
2) A low-pass filter to remove the high frequencies from the signal
feeding the woofer.
You may have noticed that the only places that these two filters have
anything in common is where their positives are joined at the positive
input, and where their negatives are joined at the negative input.
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Here
we see the schematic for a basic two-way, 12dB per octave passive
crossover that is set up for biwiring. This crossover is identical
to the other, except that the filter's inputs have been separated.
The tweeter and woofer sections of this loudspeaker are now two separate
speaker systems. (Although this configuration is very rare in PA
gear (SLS
offer it as an option) it is very common in Hi-Fi loudspeakers.)
This gives us two upgrade options prior to making the leap to an active
configuration.
Step
1) We can biwire the loudspeaker. Instead of using one
two-conductor speaker cable as is normally done, we use two
two-conductor cables (or one four-conductor cable). One cable
runs from the amp to the Highs Input, the other runs from the amp to
the Lows Input. Owing to the higher resolution of a Hi-Fi as
compared to a PA, the advantages are greater in a Hi-Fi, but it does
sound a little better in a PA. And, the cost of 12-4 speaker
cable is not that much more than 12-2 cable. It's a cheap
upgrade. Plus, when you upgrade the system to active, you can
use these same speaker cables.
Step 2) Once we have biwiring taken care of, we can then passively
biamp the speaker. Instead of using one channel of
amplification to drive both the Highs and Lows of the loudspeaker as
is normally done, we use two channels of amplification, one
channel (and speaker cable, of course) for each section of the
loudspeaker. Both amp channels are fed the same full range
signal from the mixer (or EQ, etc.). The frequency division for
the drivers is handled by the passive filters. It would seem
that there would be nothing to gain by this, but there is:
The
input impedance of the highs section increases as the frequency
decreases, so the highs section draws less power from the amp as the
frequency decreases. The amp that is driving the highs is now
doing a lot less work than when that amp was also
driving the lows section of the loudspeaker, where most of the power
is used. (The input impedance of the lows section increases as
the frequency increases, so the lows section draws less power from
the amp as the frequency increases. But as the highs use much
less power than the lows, the performance difference in the lows
section is pretty small.)
Overall,
the advantages of passive biamping are much the same as the advantages
of going active, the improvement is just smaller.* This is
mainly owing to the power loss and distortion in the passive
filters. Once you have passive biamping taken care of, when you
upgrade the system to active, all you have to do is remove the passive
crossover from the loudspeaker, put the active crossover in the amp
rack, and tune the system.
*
Not all passive crossovers contain simple filters. Some have
significant frequency response and other "tweaking",
therefore going active can in some cases actually degrade the
performance of the loudspeaker. In such a case, a digital
crossover (DSP) is required, as the DSP can be tuned to emulate the
"tweaking" that was done in the passive filters. (The
DSP can actually do much more, but as there's plenty of information
about that available from the speaker and DSP manufacturers, I'll let
you learn about that from those folks.)
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So
that's the poop. Of course it's not quite that easy. You
have to figure out how to modify the crossover board to separate the +
and - inputs, which can be tricky. (Yes, they must both be
separated!) But the rest is pretty easy. Neutrik
Speakon NL4 connectors are a must on the speaker and the amp rack of
course (1/4" connectors suck for speakers - you should get rid of
them even if you aren't biwiring).
The
best deal I've found on 12-4 cable is from Camel
Traders, who have it on perpetual special. They also have the
NL4s, but I get all my Neutrik stuff from Full
Compass, as they stock the ones with the gold pins and offer a nice
price break at 10 pieces. |

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